Comprobar los rodamientos cónicos de rueda Harley-Davidson
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The verification of the state of wheel bearings is an action that must be performed in each maintenance review and also when the tire is replaced.
If this check is not carried out periodically, the deterioration of the same and the wheel will "dance" slightly, subtracting precision in the driving, and in extreme cases destroying completely, being able to even block the wheel.
Pero, ¿los rodamientos no son redondos?
Existen en la actualidad muchos tipos de rodamientos, según la aplicación donde se utilicen.
Tradicionalmente los fabricantes de motocicletas han utilizado rodamientos rectos de bolas para las ruedas, pero los en modelos Harley-Davidson se utilizaron hasta 1999 rodamientos de rodillos cónicos, muy efectivos a la hora de soportar cargas axiales (laterales) y que requieren un ajuste preciso durante its installation.
Estos rodamientos constan de 2 partes principales, una pista que va embutida en el buje y una jaula con rodillos que giran entre la pista del buje y el cono interior, que se mantiene fijo con el eje de la rueda.
Checking the slack
We can make a first check raising the wheel and moving it laterally from 2 opposite points, checking if there is slack.
Si sospechamos de un posible exceso de juego en los rodamientos de la rueda debemos desmontarla del vehículo (como siempre, siguiendo las instrucciones del manual de taller) y extraer los retenes, utilizando para ello un extractor universal.
With the seals, we can already take out the bearings, the internal spacer and the adjustment washers, if there were them.
With all the elements outside your accommodation it is already possible to visually clean and inspect both the rollers of the bearings eat the exterior clues to detect signs of damage or wear.
Renovando el buje
If the components that we have just checked need substitution we must use a Complete kit composed of bearings, tracks and seals.
We must extract the old tracks using the specific extraction tool, which has 2 parts that are blocked on the edge of the track and push from the opposite side of the wheel.
After cleaning everything conscientiously we can install the new tread, using the correct installer
and watching that these enter their completely straight accommodation.
Before installing the new bearings we will grease them from inside with Fat for this purpose, which contains additives for heavy loads and repels the water.
The next step, which is still done with the wheel outside the vehicle, consists in introducing the internal spacer in the bushing and bearings at the ends,
followed by the axis of the wheel to which we will give the recommended tightening torque in the manual.
At this point we must verify that the free rotates and that the axial slack (side by side of the bushing) is between 0.05mm and 0.15mm using a precision meter.
For the exact adjustment within these measures there are calibrated washers. If the axis is rigid or very fair we will increase the thickness of the washers and if the slack is excessive we will install thinner washers, until leaving the slack within the specifications.
Final steps
We can already take out the axis and install the seals, which will be in charge of maintaining the fat within the set and at the same time will prevent water or dirt from penetrating.
We will use an installer to locate them completely flat in your accommodation.
We already have the bushing of our rebuilt wheel, ready to face many kilometers again in perfect condition, so we only have to reassemble the wheel supporting us again in the steps and squeezes of the manual for the year and specific model of our vehicle , especially if we have the precaution of not cleaning with pressure water the area of the seals to avoid the possible oxidation of the internal components.
Frank Burguera
3 comments
Excelente información, muy útil para quienes solos usuarios.
Me parece un artículo buenísimo
Muchas gracias por aportar
Perfect thanks a lot.