Ergonomics
Possibly the element of the motorcycle that most influences how we feel on it is the handlebars.
Along with the seat and foot controls, it marks the "ergonomic triangle," that is, the driving position and comfort. It's essential for the integration of our body with the vehicle. We control the steering with the handlebars and receive feedback from the road. Our position (and that of our back) determines our driving posture and attitude.
Although manufacturers try to establish a valid compromise for the majority of drivers, it is curious how we prioritize the sound of the exhaust or other aesthetic issues without paying too much attention to the handlebars (at first), when they are much more important when it comes to achieving human-machine integration, something that will provide us with great satisfaction, ease of use, and safety.
Simple operation?
Replacing the handlebars shouldn't usually pose any mechanical challenges; simply loosen the bolts holding them to the seatposts, slide the grips off, and replace them.
Nothing could be further from the truth. Anyone who has performed an operation of this type will have realized the importance of measuring all cables beforehand (throttle, clutch, brake, electrics, etc.) to verify they are not too short or too long. Simply removing the left grip sometimes results in its destruction, and when replacing the sprockets, it is essential to do so without pinching the electric cables, which are very tight. The tightening of the tower bolts varies for each year and model, so it is essential to follow the instructions and torque values indicated to avoid compromising safety. The throttle cables must be properly adjusted.
In short: a handlebar change must be planned and executed like any other mechanical intervention. This way, we'll avoid surprises and make it a simple, quick operation.
Beach Bar
We are going to replace the original handlebar of an HD Road King with a “Beach Bar,” a wide, set-back handlebar that allows us to ride in a straight, relaxed position.
In this case, we'll increase the technical difficulty, as the handlebars we chose have a larger diameter than the original, and we'll be running the electrical wiring inside. This model also has an electronic throttle, heated grips, and ABS—what's more?
Installation of electrical cables
First, we'll remove the handlebar clamp trim and the clamp itself, as we're installing another model compatible with the new handlebar diameter, which goes from 1" to 1-1/4".
Next we will mount the new towers (clamps) of larger diameter, we can see the differences between both in the following photograph:
After impregnating them with a few drops of Loctite, we tighten the lower screws of the new towers.
The next step is to prepare the electrical wiring to be inserted inside the handlebars. We start by removing the cables from the connector using the appropriate special tool.
We continue with the electronic throttle, adding a cable extension since the new handlebar is longer.
At the same time, we prepare the connections for the heated grips; the electronic throttle has a "plug" for its installation.
After routing the cables from one side of the handlebar, we still have the left side. We perform the same operation, installing new terminals on the extended cables, using special crimping pliers .
Once we have finished, we can place the handlebar and tighten the clamp to 26 Nm.
Installing the brake hoses
On this particular bike, we don't need to replace the clutch cable, but we do need to replace the brake system hoses with longer ones. Since this is an ABS system, we can see that it's a more complex circuit than conventional ones.
After connecting everything correctly, we tighten it to 25 Nm.
When the brake system is reassembled, it must be bled. On a Harley-Davidson ABS system, a conventional bleed is performed, followed by an electronic bleed (using a computer and an electronic bleed tool like the one in the photo to remove air bubbles from the ABS hydraulic unit), and finally another conventional bleed.
We finish the process by checking that everything is in place and that the cables are not strained when turning the handlebars, especially in the steering column area.
Conclusion
We've already installed our brand new Beach Bar. Before we head out for a beach cruise, we need to do a quick road test to check all the controls are working properly, adjust the rearview mirrors, and see how comfortable (or uncomfortably cool) the new driving position is.
Frank Burguera
5 comments
Que puedes comentar en relación a la posición de los puños del manillar ya que estoy inside directamente en la inclinación de la espalda del conductor.
gracias muy bien explicado
solo una pregunta en acelerador electronico como es la funcion de aceleracion
Gracias ya está
Hola, no soy capaz a quitar la tapa que cubre las tijas, está anclada por dónde la llave de bloqueo de manillar y no soy capaz a soltarla, me podrías decir cómo se suelta esa dichosa tapa por favor ?
Hola, yo no capaz a quitar la tapa que cubre las tijas, he soltado el tornillo que lleva delante al faro, pero parece estar anclada de alguna forma donde la llave de bloqueo del manillar, y no sé cómo quitarla, me podrías decir por favor ?