How to shoot the Harley-Davidson engine

When the engine is completely new, we have rebuilt or installed some internal component kit, such as pistons, cylinders or big bore kit, we have to perform a motor shoot, so that the new components are adjusted between them.

During the filming period, the new components create excessive friction and temperature, so it is necessary to follow specific procedures so that the mechanical elements "settle" correctly, thus prolonging their useful life. In the same way, this increased component friction generates a large amount of metal particle waste, which must be removed with an oil change after filming.

Although there are many procedures to perform this filming, most manufacturers and experts recommend two fundamental points to take into account: avoid excessive heating and treat the engine with a lasting period of this period. I have adapted a fragment of the shooting recommendations of the renowned American manufacturer S&S Cycle, probably one of the companies that knows the most from the world's engines, how to take care of them and especially how to break them, since during the last 60 years they have dedicated them to put them to the limit in the competition:

1. Initial start -up. The engine operates approximately 1250-1750 rpm. Do not turn the accelerator or submit it to load during this period, since the butt joints are susceptible to failures at this time (the engine is cold and has not yet dilated). During this time, it verifies that the oil pressure is normal, that the oil returns to the oil tank and that there are no leaks.
2. Turn off the engine and check if there are leaks or other problems. Let the engine cool to touch.
3. After the engine has cooled, start again and allows the engine to heat a little. The engine should not work for more than three or four minutes. When the cylinders are heated to the touch (approximately 60 ° C) turn off the engine and let it cool to room temperature. Follow the same precautions as for the initial start -up and continue looking for anomalies.
4. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. The engine should take a little longer to heat and can increase the temperature slightly (+15 ° C). You can slightly increase the RPM, it varies gently the RPM from 0 to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Do not worry too much with the final configuration of carburation/injection at this time, because the idle speed and the mixture cannot be configured correctly until the engine reaches the operational operation temperature. The engine should not reach that temperature during these cycles. After the engine has cooled at room temperature for the last time, it is ready to start the 1500 -kilometer engine filming process.
5. The first 80 kilometers are more critical for segments and piston. Motor damage is more likely to happen during this period. Keep the temperature low, without exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid overloading the engine, driving with very high atmosphere temperatures or circular in urban traffic. The engine speed varies constantly, but do not force it. It is recommended to change the oil after these 80 kilometers.
6. The next 800 kilometers must be carried out by operating the engine no more than 3500 rpm or 100 km/h. Avoid continuous constant speeds, and not overload the engine. The engine rpm varies.
7. For the rest of the first 1500 kilometers, the engine can be used normally, but conservative. You can be more liberal with the RPM range and the motorcycle can be operated at normal road speeds. Avoid overheating or putting excessive load in the engine: without sudden accelerations, power bank tests, excessive speed, etc.
8. After 1500 kilometers, check the injection or carburetor adjustment.
Change engine oil. It is recommended to use an internal cleaner as Engine Flush Before emptying used oil and filling with synthetic oil. The motorcycle can now be operated normally.
9. Enjoy!